Finding ourselves between towns, Troy and I “wild-camped” last night, as they call it here. No rain, but there is heavy overcast and dew, not to mention the tent issue of condensation.

We camped next to a “gallop.” We are quite close to Lambourn, heart of England’s racing culture, and home to over 40 training stables. Every crossing trail is a “bridleway” and we are surrounded by gallops with all the steeplechase jumps I used to read about; water, poles, logs, brush jumps, and in and outs.

Everyone, please get out your favorite Dick Francis mystery right now, and reread it. You’ll know instantly where we are, what the air feels like, and earth smells like. I wished I could have been wakened by the sound of galloping hooves, but no such luck.

Officially, wild camping along the Ridgeway is illegal. But unofficially, it is clear that “Leave no trace” is the rule. Be polite, be clean, be quiet, get in late, and get out early, and you’ll be fine, I was told. Troy and I did as advised.

One of the memorial benches…. I love this sentiment, especially knowing I’m walking a path that has been trod by man and steed for over 5000 years. Puts it all in perspective, doesn’t it?

Some of the defensive “earthworks” at Uffington Castle. Sheep are the only residents now.

The stunning view from just above the 3000-year-old earth-drawing of the Uffington White Horse…the most beautiful earthwork I’ve ever seen. Though I’m not a visual artist, I was trying to imagine what drove the individual who did this. I’m sure it was someone with powerful insight and a driving need to create, but he or she could never see their work in its entirety! It can only be fully viewed from the air. How could they create such a flowing abstract vision of a horse? It’s so elegant that it is modern in the stylized clean lines of it.

Below the Horse, you can see the plateau where legend has it that St George slew the dragon! It looks like a spot for such an epic battle, doesn’t it?

Now you must quickly go play Marian Call’s new song about St. George and the Dragon…except I’m not sure she has recorded it yet. I’ve heard it in concert twice, and it’s fabulous!

Such a complete vision without ever seeing. How? It reminds me of Beethoven composing while deaf. At least Monet could step back and view the whole as he painted his 30'-long canvases. Not so for the creator of the Uffington White Horse. Thankfully, for all of its 3000-year existence, with remarkable uninterrupted agreement, people have cared for the horse, cleaning and maintaining it. The work goes on today in the care of the National Trust.

In Uffington Castle, some very curious sheep tried herding Troy! Smart boy ducked behind me quickly.

Wayland’s Smithy is a barrow, a long burial mound with Standing Stones.

We reached it about 5pm at the end of a misty quiet day of walking. Many graves have been located here over time, built on top of one another. Visiting alone felt like walking into a cathedral. Then the irreverant crows started calling and flying! With them you can hear the wood pigeons—they sound like doves with laryngitis. Wood pigeons are pretty birds, much larger than city pigeons, and very shy. I have not been able to catch one on camera. It was an irreverent chorus in the cathedral.